Mount Tsukuba Shrine [Ibaraki]

【Overview of Mount Tsukuba Shrine】

While the exact founding year of Mount Tsukuba Shrine is unknown, it is one of the most prominent ancient shrines in the Kanto region, boasting a history of over 3,000 years. Records suggest that local governors (Tsukuba-no-kuni-no-miyatsuko) were already serving the shrine during the reign of Emperor Sujin, confirming that it has been established and revered since at least the 90s BCE.

【Who was Emperor Sujin?】

Emperor Sujin was the 10th Emperor of Japan (reigned approx. 97 BCE – 30 BCE) and is considered the earliest emperor whose historical existence is certain. He laid the foundations of the Yamato Dynasty by pacifying plagues, dispatching generals to the four corners of the empire, and establishing a tax system.

According to the shrine’s legend, Mount Tsukuba Engi, Mount Tsukuba is “Onokoro Island”—the very first island created by the gods Izanagi and Izanami as described in the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters). Furthermore, it is considered a sacred mountain where the sun goddess Amaterasu Omikami descended. Another legend from the Mount Tsukuba Shiki even states that Amaterasu later moved from Tsukuba to Ise. (Note: This is one of several traditions.)

The ancient text Hitachi no Kuni Fudoki compares its majestic appearance to Mount Fuji, suggesting it has been an object of worship since humans first settled in the Kanto Plain.

The main deities enshrined here are Tsukuba-o-no-Kami (the male deity = Izanagi-no-Mikoto) and Tsukuba-me-no-Kami (the female deity = Izanami-no-Mikoto).

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(The photo above shows Mount Tsukuba)

【What is Onokoro Island?】

Generally, the area around Awaji Island is famous as the legendary site, but Mount Tsukuba in Ibaraki is also known as one of the candidate sites for “Onokoro Island” from the Japanese creation myth. The two peaks, Mount Nantai (Male Mountain) and Mount Nyotai (Female Mountain), are seen as a pair of male and female deities (Izanagi and Izanami), and the mountain has been worshipped since ancient times as a sacred place where the gods descended.

【Mount Tsukuba Shrine: The Approach (Sando)】

You can reach the shrine from the side path near Chuzen-ji Omido, but this main approach comes from the east.

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Although it is a bit of a detour from Omido, I highly recommend entering through this approach if possible.

【Mount Tsukuba Shrine: Sacred Bridge (Shinkyo)】

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Spanning the center of the approach, the Sacred Bridge was built in 1633 (Kanei 10) and was reserved exclusively for the Shogun during the Edo period. It is normally closed to general worshippers. However, during the shrine’s “Ozagawari-sai” festival, portable shrines (mikoshi) and their attendants cross this bridge. It is currently designated as a Cultural Property of Ibaraki Prefecture.

【Mount Tsukuba Shrine: Husband-and-Wife Cedar (Meoto Sugi)】

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Just before the Zuishinmon Gate, separate from the main “sacred tree,” stands the Meoto Sugi—two cedar trees joined at their base. Symbolizing Mount Nantai (Male Deity) and Mount Nyotai (Female Deity) of Mount Tsukuba, it is a popular spot for visitors praying for good matchmaking and relationships.

【Mount Tsukuba Shrine: Zuishinmon Gate】

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Climbing the steps, you are greeted by a two-story gate (Romon) that boasts the largest scale in Ibaraki Prefecture. Originally donated by the 3rd Tokugawa Shogun, Iemitsu, it repeatedly burned down. The current gate was rebuilt in 1811 (Bunka 8).

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During the era of Shinto-Buddhist syncretism, it was known as the “Nio-mon” and housed Buddhist guardian statues (Kongo Rikishi). After the separation of Shinto and Buddhism, it became the “Zuishinmon.” Today, it houses Shinto warrior deities: Yamato Takeru-no-Mikoto on the left (facing the hall) and Toyokiirihiko-no-Mikoto on the right. It is now a designated Cultural Property of Ibaraki.

The Transition of the Zuishinmon Gate (Formerly Nio-mon)】

The large gate that is now the symbol of Mount Tsukuba Shrine was originally a Buddhist “Nio-mon” gate.

Built by Iemitsu: In 1633, Tokugawa Iemitsu built it as the main gate for Chuzen-ji Temple.


Original Statues: At the time, Buddhist guardian deities (Nio) flanked the left and right sides.


Transition to a Shrine: Due to the Meiji-era policy separating Shinto and Buddhism, Chuzen-ji was abolished, and the site became Mount Tsukuba Shrine. The Nio statues were removed, and the gate was renamed “Zuishinmon.”

【Mount Tsukuba Shrine: Main Shrine Building (Shaden)】

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In the Heian period, “Chisoku-in Chuzen-ji” was established, marking the beginning of Shinto-Buddhist syncretism where the gods of Tsukuba were called “Tsukuba Ryo-Daigongen.” Later, the Tokugawa Shogunate placed extreme importance on Mount Tsukuba as a spiritual protector of Edo Castle’s “Demon Gate” (northeast). Following the 1868 Separation of Shinto and Buddhism decree, the 1,000-year-old Chuzen-ji was abolished, and its Buddhist facilities were destroyed or relocated.

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The current shrine building is built on the ruins of Chuzen-ji’s Omido. A large bell hangs above the offertory box at the worship hall, but it has no rope, so it cannot be rung.

【Mount Tsukuba Shrine: The Sacred Great Cedar (O-sugi)】

To the right of the Zuishinmon Gate stands the “Great Cedar,” a sacred tree with an overwhelming presence that the Shoguns of the Edo Bakufu must have also looked up to.

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More than just a giant tree, it is cherished by many worshippers as a “power spot” symbolizing the spiritual energy of Mount Tsukuba. Estimated to be over 800 years old, this cedar was already a magnificent giant when Tokugawa Iemitsu lavishly rebuilt the Omido and shrine some 390 years ago. It is truly a witness to history, having watched over the entire rise and fall of the Shogunate.

【Mount Tsukuba Shrine Subsidiary Shrine: Kasuga Shrine】

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Donated by Tokugawa Iemitsu in 1633. The worship hall seems to be shared with Hie Shrine, and inside, Ebisu (one of the Hitachi Seven Lucky Gods) was enshrined. It is designated as a Tangible Cultural Property of Ibaraki.

Enshrined Deities: Takemikazuchi-no-Mikoto and Futsunushi-no-Mikoto.

【Mount Tsukuba Shrine Subsidiary Shrine: Itsukushima Shrine】

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Also donated by Tokugawa Iemitsu in 1633. True to its name, it sits on an island floating in a pond. The spirit was reportedly divided and brought here from Chikubu Island in Shiga Prefecture.

Enshrined Deity: Ichikishimahime-no-Mikoto.

【Mount Tsukuba Shrine Subsidiary Shrine: Asahi Inari Shrine】

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Although its exact founding is unknown, it is said to have been established in the Heian period by Prince Tadayoshi, son of the 52nd Emperor Saga.It is one of the “Seven Inari of Mount Tsukuba,” commonly known as “Shusse Inari” (Inari of Success).

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Enshrined Deities: Ota-no-Mikoto and Omiyanome-no-Mikoto.

【Mount Tsukuba Shrine Subsidiary Shrine: Atagoyama Shrine】

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The founding is unknown, but as an Atago shrine, the deity is presumed to be the fire god, Hinokagutsuchi.

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The atmosphere felt very similar to Mogusa Hachiman-gu, which I visited previously.Personally, this was my favorite spot within Mount Tsukuba Shrine.

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I couldn’t tell if the energy came from the large tree on the way to the shrine or the area around it, but it was an incredibly refreshing space where I ended up spending the most time. Just to be safe, it’s probably best not to touch the large tree on the way recklessly.

【Toward the Mount Nantai Main Shrine】

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If you face the worship hall and head left, you will see a sign guiding you to “Miyawaki Station” (for the cable car).

The route to the Mount Nantai peak is summarized below.

【Tourist Spots Nearby】

Mount Tsukuba Chuzen-ji, Hitachi no Kuni Soshagu, Hitachi Fudoki no Oka.

【Mount Tsukuba Shrine Shrine: Access】

Admin’s Impressions

Beneath the glamorous surface of its ties to the Tokugawa family, a primitive mountain worship—predating written history—breathes deeply here. The awe that ancient people felt, viewing the towering Nantai and Nyotai peaks of the Kanto Plain as gods, continues to this day. Starting with the 800-year-old great cedar, the precinct is overflowing with flora possessing overwhelming energy. It is not just a tourist spot, but a place that makes you truly realize that “the entire mountain is a Goshintai” (an object of worship housing a divine spirit).

Scale
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Accessibility
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History / Origins
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Nature / Scenery
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Quietness
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Goshuin Variety
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Address of Mount Tsukuba Shrine

1-1 Tsukuba, Tsukuba City, Ibaraki Prefecture 300-4352

*Note: Paid parking available.

About 40 minutes by bus from Tsukuba Station (Tsukuba Express Line).

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