Inari Kio Shrine [Tokyo]

【Overview of Inari Kio Shrine】

Inari Kio Shrine is widely celebrated as the only shrine in all of Japan that enshrines the “King of Demons” (Kio). The sanctuary came into existence through the merging of two distinct deities that were originally worshipped in separate locations. Its history began in 1653 (Shoo 2), during the Edo period, when local peasants who were clearing the wilderness of the Okubo area enshrined Ukanomitama no Kami as the protective guardian deity of their community.

The second half of its origin dates back to 1752 (Horeki 2), when a local peasant named Tanaka Seiemon fell gravely ill during a pilgrimage to the sacred Kumano region. After praying passionately to “Kio Gongen” (The Demon King Avatar), he miraculously made a full recovery. Filled with deep gratitude, Seiemon brought a branch spirit of this deity back home and established a small shrine in Okubo Village. Since both deities were profoundly revered by the local populace, the community decided to merge the two separate shrines into a single sanctuary in 1831 (Tenpo 2), naming it “Inari Kio Shrine” by combining the titles of both gods.

The enshrined deities are broadly divided into the “Inari Deity” and “Kio Gongen.” Specifically, the shrine worships a trio of three divine pillars (San-hashira): Ukanomitama no Kami, along with the deities comprising Kio Gongen—Tsukuyomi no Mikoto, Omononushi no Mikoto, and Sukunahikona no Mikoto.

【Historical Consideration: Why “Kio Gongen” No Longer Exists at its Kumano Roots】

The explicit reason why Kio Gongen no longer survives at its original location in Kumano is that no formal records were left on the main stage of history; today, we do not even know exactly where it once stood. The term Gongen (Avatar) is a core concept of Shinto-Buddhist syncretism, meaning “a Buddhist deity that manifests in the physical form of a Japanese Shinto god.” Therefore, it is highly probable that the original shrine was abolished and wiped out due to the strict Shinto-Buddhist separation policy enforced by the government during the Meiji period.

Furthermore, the original appearance and true nature of “Kio Gongen” remain deeply shrouded in mystery. If it was merely a “folk deity of disease healing” quietly worshipped only within a specific, isolated hamlet of Kumano or among mountain ascetics (Yamabushi), it is highly likely that the oral traditions died out on the original home-front as times changed, causing the faith to naturally vanish.

Although the name contains the kanji character for “demon/ogre” (鬼 – Oni), historical records state that this name was preserved because folk faith revered the deity as “an incredibly powerful, benevolent King of Demons who expels all manners of illnesses and evil spirits.” As a direct result of this spirit being formally welcomed (kanjo) to Tokyo (Okubo Village) in 1752, the sacred flame of the “Kio Gongen” faith avoided extinction and has successfully survived into the modern era.

【The Inari Kio Shrine Main Approach (Sando)】

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As you walk down the main approach, you are greeted by a pair of highly eccentric A-un Komainu (Guardian Lion-Dogs). While typical komainu statues fiercely glare diagonally forward or off to the sides, the guardian dogs here sit in an exceptionally rare posture: puffing out their chests, turning their faces completely forward, and gazing slightly upward toward the heavens.

【The Shaden (Main Shrine Buildings)】

The main shrine building comes into view immediately from the main approach. The current Haiden (worship hall) was rebuilt in 1968 (Showa 43) during Japan’s era of high economic growth.

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If you look closely at the facade of the worship hall, you will notice two distinct crests prominently displayed side-by-side: the “Inari Crest” (representing the fox/rice deity) and the “Tomoe Crest” (commemorating the Kumano roots). This visual layout directly tells the historical story of how the shrine was born from the unification of the Inari faith and the Kio faith brought from Kumano. 

【The Auxiliary Shrine: Mishima Shrine (Also Known as Kaiun Ebisu Shrine)】

Situated immediately to the left upon entering the torii gate from the City Hall Avenue (Kuyakusho-dori) side, this auxiliary shrine is deeply and passionately revered as the Ebisu deity of the famous “Shinjuku Yamanote Seven Lucky Gods” pilgrimage.

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The enshrined deity is Kotoshiro-nushi no Mikoto, who is identified as Ebisu-sama (the god of luck and commerce).

According to tradition, this deity originally manifested from within the private estate of a powerful feudal lord (Daimyo), Matsudaira Izumi-no-kami, during the Bunka era (circa 1804–1818) of the Edo period.

【The Auxiliary Shrine: Asama Shrine】

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A mini-mountain replica (Fujizuka) and Asama Shrine are located on the rear approach side of the grounds.

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Originally, this was an independent shrine located from ancient times in the West Okubo district, but it was joint-enshrined (goshi) into Inari Kio Shrine in 1894 (Meiji 27). Due to the intense heat from air raids during World War II, the stone foundation became loose. Fearing that the miniature mountain would suffer a catastrophic collapse if left at its original height, the shrine authorities scaled down the mountain’s elevation. Today, the historic site sits divided into two sections across the pathway.

The enshrined deity is Konohanasakuya-hime no Mikoto.

【The Eyeball-Eating Demon Statue (Gankyu Shokki-zo)】

The statue of the Eyeball-Eating Demon (Gankyu Shokki) is tucked away quietly in front of the Fujizuka mound. While its face features the terrifying, wrathful countenance of a Hannya demon, its body bizarrely carries a snail-like spiral shell on its back, and its feet are uniquely shaped like the continuous caterpillar tracks of a military tank. In its hands, it holds a human eyeball, frozen in the motion of bringing it toward its mouth to consume it.

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The traditional style of worship here is highly unique: visitors bring their own handkerchief or cloth, and while gently wiping the specific eyeball held by the demon statue, they offer a heartfelt prayer for the health and healing of their own eyes.

Although the exact date of its installation is unverified, records indicate that this statue suddenly materialized within the precincts sometime between shortly before 2020 and the very early 2020s. Therefore, while it lacks a deep ethnological or ancient historical background, it serves as a proud icon for this shrine that worships the King of Demons. Infused with the chief priest’s playful spirit and a desire to entertain modern worshippers, it is celebrated today as one of the “Seven Wonders of the Shrine.”

【The Tofu-Abstinence Faith (Tofu-dachi)】

When the peasant Tanaka Seiemon—the root of this shrine—fell critically ill during his travels, an old man appeared at his bedside in a vision and instructed him: “Offer tofu to Kio Daigongen and pray.” He followed the instructions precisely, and his illness was completely cured, leaving behind a legacy of miraculous faith. To the people of that era, tofu was a top-tier, highly precious source of nutrition and an absolute luxury feast made from precious soybeans. This folk faith centered on willingly abstaining from one’s absolute favorite food to demonstrate strong willpower and absolute sincerity to the deity in exchange for curing an illness.

During the Edo and Meiji periods, the influx of worshippers visiting specifically to practice this tofu abstinence was so overwhelming that staggering historical records remain, stating: “There were several tofu shops in front of the shrine that survived solely by selling tofu meant for shrine offerings, making an entire livelihood out of that alone.” This tradition adds a fascinating chapter to the “abstinence series” (mono-dachi) found throughout Japanese history. Similar self-denial faiths can be found at other temples and shrines involving tea, konjac, or Japanese ginger (myoga); however, they all share the core concept of giving up a beloved luxury to prove one’s devotion and mental strength to the gods.

【Urban Legend: A Corner of Taira no Masakado’s Big Dipper Barrier?】

There is a thrilling urban legend claiming that a powerful spiritual barrier was cast over Tokyo by connecting seven shrines associated with the legendary rebel warrior Taira no Masakado, forming the exact shape of the Big Dipper constellation (Hokuto Shichisei). Inari Kio Shrine is counted as a crucial spot sitting directly on this celestial barrier line (or serving as an important anchor to reinforce it) designed to pacify Masakado’s powerful wrathful spirit—or tap into its immense protective power.

The classic “Seven Big Dipper Shrines of Edo” are widely said to be: Yoroi Shrine, Mizu-Inari Shrine, Tsukudo Hachiman Shrine, Kanda Myojin Shrine, Masakado’s Grave Mound (Kubizuka), Kabuto Shrine, and Torigoe Shrine. (Note: Tsukudo Hachiman Shrine and Tsukudo Shrine are completely separate sanctuaries).

Fascinatingly, historical records show that Taira no Masakado’s childhood name was indeed “Kiomarumaru” (鬼王丸). Because of this connection, history books published during the Meiji and early Showa periods (such as Taira no Masakado Koseki-ko) explicitly note: “The divine title ‘Kio’ (Demon King) at this shrine is actually a secret cover used to clandestinely worship Taira no Masakado.” Although shrine authorities officially state that there is no historical relationship, this theory is packed with romantic historical intrigue that beautifully captures the imagination.

【Inari Kio Shrine Goshuin】

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【Inari Kio Shrine Nearby Tourist Spots (Within a 30-Minute Walk)】

Hanazono Shrine

【Inari Kio Shrine Recommended Walking Route Including Inari Kio Shrine】

The walking routes and itineraries have been compiled below for your reference, and I hope they prove useful for your travels.

【Inari Kio Shrine Access】

Admin’s Impressions

Though the precincts are incredibly compact, the moment you step inside, you are completely overwhelmed by its deep, mysterious charm. My absolute biggest surprise was the “Eyeball-Eating Demon Statue” tucked away in a corner of the grounds. Its bizarre design—carrying a snail-like shell while popping an eyeball into its mouth—is unforgettable. While it is reportedly a mysterious statue that suddenly appeared in recent years, its modern blessing of “healing the eye strain of modern-day people” made me deeply appreciate the shrine’s sense of humor and warmth. Furthermore, learning about the intense history of the “Tofu-Abstinence Faith” dating back to the Edo period adds an excellent new entry to my favorite mono-dachi (abstinence series) checklist! The theories connecting the name “Kio” to Masakado’s childhood name, combined with the urban legend of Tokyo’s protective Big Dipper barrier, add a wonderful, eerie depth and alternative historical romance to this quiet, sacred space.

Scale
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Accessibility
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History / Origins
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Nature / Scenery
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Quietness
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Goshuin Variety
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Address of Inari Kio Shrine

2-17-5 Kabukicho, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0021

*No parking available on-site.

Train (Subway): Approximately a 3-minute walk from Higashi-shinjuku Station (Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line / Toei Oedo Line).


Inari Kio Shrine Official Website

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