Zoshigaya Otori Shrine [Tokyo]

【Overview of Zoshigaya Otori Shrine】

Zoshigaya Otori Shrine was founded in 1712 (Shotoku 2). When Matsudaira Yoshitaka—the 4th feudal lord of the Izumo-Matsue Domain—faced a crisis with his eldest son, Nobuyori, contracting a life-threatening infectious disease (smallpox), the boy was sent to convalesce at the domain’s suburban villa (shimoyashiki) in Zoshigaya. Yoshitaka prayed desperately for his son’s recovery to “Sagi Daimyojin,” a powerful deity in his home region of Izumo. After the boy miraculously made a full recovery, the lord, filled with profound gratitude, built a shrine to enshrine a branch spirit (bunrei) of the deity within the grounds of the villa, marking the birth of this sanctuary. Originally, this Otori Shrine was located within the precincts of the adjacent Kishimojin-do (which is a Buddhist temple). However, during the Shinto-Buddhist Separation Order (Shinbutsu Bunri-rei), it became independent from the temple, relocated to its current site, and its divine title was formally changed from “Sagi Daimyojin” to “Otori Shrine.”

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【The Original “Sagi Daimyojin” in Izumo】

“Sagi Daimyojin” (The Great Heron Avatar) is the historical, ancient name for Inasehagi Shrine, which is located in Sagiura, Taisha-machi, Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture. Since ancient times, it garnered overwhelming faith from across the nation as “Japan’s primary deity for warding off smallpox (hoso).” The formal enshrined deity of Inasehagi Shrine is Inasehagi no Mikoto.

Today, the Otori Shrine in Zoshigaya officially enshrines three divine pillars (San-hashira): Yamato Takeru no Mikoto, Ukanomitama no Kami, and Hiruko Okami (Ebisu-sama).

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【Why is the Name Sagi Daimyojin Missing from the Current Deities?】

During the Shinto-Buddhist separation process, the Meiji government restructured the ranking of shrines and systematically reorganized their enshrined deities to promote a centralized nation built around the Emperor (State Shinto). During this period, the government strongly pressured shrines to place Tenson-kei (Heavenly/Imperial-lineage deities connected to Amaterasu Omikami and the current Imperial family) as the primary enshrined gods, rather than the Izumo-kei (Earthly deities like Okuninushi no Mikoto) who were traditionally credited with physically creating the land of Japan.

Yamato Takeru no Mikoto was a prince of Emperor Keiko, making him a textbook representative of the preferred Tenson-kei lineage. Consequently, across the entire country, one shrine after another had its lesser-known, local Izumo-lineage gods replaced with high-profile, government-sanctioned heavenly gods like Yamato Takeru no Mikoto. It can be said that this was a bittersweet compromise—or a compulsory mandate—undertaken by shrines at the time simply to survive under strict state regulation.

【The Shrine Approach (Sando)】

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The nearest station is the “Kishimojin-mae Stop” on the Toden Arakawa Line. Walking a short distance right along the train tracks reveals the shrine’s torii gate. The Komainu (Guardian Lion-Dogs) standing by the first gate crouch with their hindquarters raised high into the air, frozen in an aggressive stance as if they are about to spring forward at any second. This is a highly distinct sculptural style known as the “Izumo Kamae-gata” (Izumo Crouching Style), a design frequently spotted at shrines throughout Shimane Prefecture (the historic Izumo region).

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If you turn around, the train tracks sit directly in front of the torii gate, allowing you to watch the retro, nostalgic Chin-chin streetcars of the old downtown clank and rattle past right before your eyes.

【The Shaden (Main Shrine Buildings)】

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The current main shrine buildings were grandly constructed in 1981 (Showa 56).

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Standing in front of the worship hall (Haiden), the very first object to catch your eye is a highly unusual “kinchaku (traditional drawstring pouch) shaped offertory box.” Since Zoshigaya Otori Shrine is also in charge of the Ebisu deity for the “Zoshigaya Seven Lucky Gods” pilgrimage, the precincts and main hall areas are overflowing with fortune-invoking imagery, such as a statue of Ebisu-sama proudly riding atop a massive kinchaku pouch.

【The Auxiliary Shrine: Nishimiya Shrine】

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Back in the Edo period when Otori Shrine sat inside the grounds of Kishimojin-do, Ebisu-sama was already enshrined alongside the main gods. However, amidst the chaotic relocation process during the Meiji period, the statue and lineage of Ebisu went missing.

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In 2010, when the community established the “Zoshigaya Seven Lucky Gods” circuit to revitalize the local neighborhood, they formally welcomed a branch spirit from Nishimiya Shrine in Hyogo Prefecture—the grand head shrine of all Ebisu sanctuaries in Japan. This successfully resurrected Ebisu-sama to this specific plot of land for the first time in roughly 140 years.

【The Auxiliary Shrine: Misugi Inari Shrine】

Nestled to the right side when facing the main hall, Misugi Inari Shrine was once a private household shrine (Yashiro) kept on a personal estate along the Toden streetcar avenue in present-day Minami-Ikebukuro 2-chome (formerly known as Hinode-cho).

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Due to massive urban development surrounding the Tokyo Olympics (1964), the construction of the Metropolitan Expressway Route 5 Ikebukuro Line was greenlit. In response, the chief priest of Otori Shrine (who concurrently managed the Inari shrine at the time) collaborated with local residents to relocate the deity to the secure precincts of Otori Shrine in 1967 (Showa 42).

【Zoshigaya Otori Shrine Goshuin】

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【Zoshigaya Otori Shrine Nearby Tourist Spots (Within a 30-Minute Walk)】

Zoshigaya Kishimojin-do Temple, Mejiro Garden, Ikebukuro Station, Sunshine City, Gokokuji Temple, Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo, St. Mary’s Cathedral (Tokyo Cathedral), Higo-Hosokawa Garden

【Recommended Walking Route Including Zoshigaya Otori Shrine】

The walking routes and itineraries have been compiled below for your reference, and I hope they prove useful for your travels.

【Zoshigaya Otori Shrine Access】

Admin’s Impressions

Though the precincts are compact, it was a truly lovely shrine packed to the brim with fascinating highlights. The scenery of the retro streetcar clanking and rattling past directly in front of the torii gate captures downtown nostalgia and sacred shrine architecture in a single frame—making it a hidden, top-tier photo spot. While the official primary deity is documented as “Yamato Takeru no Mikoto (Tenson-kei),” researching its origins reveals that it was originally a shrine split from the “Sagi Daimyojin” of Izumo. Though the name of the Izumo lineage (Kunitsukami) was wiped from the official text during the history of the Meiji era, the memory of that heritage survives beautifully in the unique posture of the Komainu guardian dogs along the approach. Worshipping here as a set package with Kishimojin-do allows you to feel the history of Zoshigaya on a significantly deeper level.

Scale
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Accessibility
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History / Origins
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Nature / Scenery
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Quietness
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Goshuin Variety
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Zoshigaya Otori Shrine Address

3-20-20-14 Zoshigaya, Toshima City, Tokyo 171-0032

*No parking available on-site.

Train / Streetcar:

Approximately a 2-minute walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line.

Approximately a 2-minute walk from the Kishimojin-mae Stop on the Toden Arakawa Line.


Zoshigaya Otori Shrine Mention Page

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